Give me Mohr

I love fish and chips! Perfectly cooked white, flaky fish in batter with big fat chips and vinegar. Best of course, eaten from paper, on some cold and windswept beach, feeding seagulls with the remains, which is what I do with my grandma when I get the chance. They seem to cheer up the spirits no end and even at 98, give her a spring in her step and on the last occasion, seriously asked a, rather surprised, young windsurfer if she could have a go.

They suit the outdoors, the casual and the spontaneous. I can recall great fish and chip moments on climbing weekend trips on the Dorset sea cliffs. Growing up in a seaside town, I had insider knowledge as to the best available, served by over sized, middle aged waitresses with greasy fingers and lots of gold.

Fish and chips are good, cheap honest fayre. Not right for fancy restaurants trussed up in boxes. In London I regularly ate at Geales in Notting Hill. Although it has been done up of late, the wet-fish style white tiled environment was just right. The choice was simple, cod, haddock, or rock in batter with tartar sauce (extra) and mushy peas. Pickled eggs or onions on the side, served from jars behind the counter. If you fancied a tipple with your food you ordered from a separate cash bar. A very 'London' experience, and liked the jellied eel stall on the Roman Road, or the bagel shop in Columbia Road, something that doesn't travel well.

And then we went to Mohr Fish. A very unassuming shop on a corner of Devonshire Street, Sydney, which is tiled with years of fish history. Sitting at the counter or at one of the poseur tables, you could easily think you were back in the East End - aside of course from the clientelle and the slightly more glamorous ingredients than I'm used, but its all relative.

I'm not sure if its a family restaurant, but it 'feels' like it is. On a busy Friday night, the waitress behind the counter took all the orders, answered the phone, served and cleared. Somehow she even managed to haul out waiting patrons from the adjacent pub as their name came up on her list. It was all very entertaining. On our visit, stylish couples mingled with the over-inebriated and a man and his squawking green parrot provided the background music as they waited for a takeaway salad (for the parrot). If you fancy a drink, you can bring your own with no corkage and they will chill it for you as you wait for a table, or you can buy a glass from the pub. Fish and chips served the best way yet, this side of the equator.

Mohr Fish

202 Devonshire Street

Surry Hills 2010