Tuesday 7 September 2010

Camp Cove, Watsons Bay




Since getting back from London, M and I have been on a strict health regime, a la Dr Gillian, which resolves eating copious amounts of vegetables. M is doing very well, mainly because he’s eating only what I give him. Naturally, I’ve had to have the odd sneaky glass of wine to cope with stepmother stresses and so I’m counterbalancing my bad behavior with a return to yoga. I’m also getting back into running and trying to up my fitness levels to what they were prior to the absence of Rikki, and the knee incident.

Like London, Sydney has an extraordinary amount of green spaces – big open spans of land next to sea or the bush, or little patches of space between houses. Lots have history and allow you to see how a city has been shaped. For an urban dweller like me, it's the closest I get to nature, for the time being anyway. I absolutely love to be outdoors, and whilst I am unable to work, it's a great opportunity for me to get to know the green spots – along with some of the history of the place that is now home.

I started at Camp Cove, which is adjacent to Watson’s Bay at the tip of the Eastern Suburbs. It was apparently the first landing spot of the European ships, having just made their way through the heads. It sports the oldest lighthouse in NSW, gaily painted in red and white stripes to distinguish it from others further down the coast. The lighthouse was apparently built after the wrecking of several ships on the rocks below – gutting presumably, after such a long voyage at sea to be dashed against rocks only yards from their final destination. Rather bizarrely the first light keeper was the only survivor of one of the first wrecks.

There is a short little circular walk up from the beach – one of Sydney’s prettiest and fringed by houses that compete only with those in places like Malibu and all good for lusting after. The walk passes by the lighthouse and several cannons and long ago redundant, defense relics. There are also some gorgeous flat rocks, perfect for sunbathing and gazing at the ferries passing below. For all out sunbathing, there is Lady Beach (after Lady Jane, although I have no idea why), one of five Sydney beaches that allow nudity.

The adjacent bay is Watsons Bay. Home of Doyles, Australia's oldest fish and chip restaurant with little tables set out on the sand – and one of the best views of the city. You can also stay here at the Watsons Bay Hotel, or get a ferry back to Circular Quay.

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