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Following on from the twittering I was doing earlier, if you want to know what it is and how to do it, follow this link.

http://tinyurl.com/76e6c3

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Its raining again for about the 4th day in a row.  I'm not actually complaining, M has been ill since the weekend and I've had my nurses outfit on, looking after him.  Now he's officially off for the rest of the week and we're planning to get out of town for the weekend to give him a break.  I'm also a bit done with sightseeing, having been here for 3 weeks and then 3 weeks in Argentina before that.  Yes thanks, I'm aware of how that sounds.  I just mentioned the rain so you know that its not perfect all the time! 

I did get out on my bike yesterday for a couple of hours and had a delicious latte.  It was a treat because at £5 a cup, its not an everyday purchase.  Trying desperately to avoid getting soaked, I found an amazing bookshop that specialised international design titles and I spend hours drooling.  I also found a fashion store called Grace Continental (www.grace-net.jp) that sells the hippy type clothing that I love.  Naturally, and probably thankfully, the largest size they stock is 10 so I vowed to come home and thriftily knock up some of their ideas on my sewing machine.  Sure, that will probably happen when I'm baking bread and growing my own vegetables!

Anyway, back inside, the purpose of my post today is to discuss my communication exploits. When I first got here, I struggled for a few days because I felt cut off and a bit lonely - my non G3 crackberry habit switched off and access to emails and texts denied.  But these challenges have made me look at other ways to communicate and have pushed my boundaries in terms of putting myself 'out there'.  The result, supported by the fact that I have more thinking time on my hands, is that I have happily felt more in contact with the people that I really want to be.  

This blog for one, challenged me at first, not knowing who might be reading and what they might be thinking of me or my writing.  It does feel a bit one way, but although I still wish you would sign up so I know who you are (thank you Kelly), each morning I can tell from the counter how many 'hits' I've had during the night.  Many of you have written to me via Facebook to comment.  Then of course there is FB itself.  I love the chat facility (bottom right), where you can see who is online and be able to 'chat' to those people in real time.  Whilst the UK is sleeping, I've been chatting to Nicolette and Karina, both in Melbourne, whilst trying to keep up with Billie.  Plus of course, FB offers me the opportunity to whip David and Robert Lee at scrabble (no David, I am not cheating!).  It also allows me to be aware of day to day activities of many other people, including old friends, with whom, I had previously long ago lost touch and, who now share brilliant Japanese tips.  Then there is Skype, through which I've made all my calls to the UK, and have been able to share my porridge and my daylight, with Clare in exchange for her glass of wine and snow covered street.  As well as sweating the small stuff with Jossy, now working too hard in UAE.  

I think its this small stuff that counts in a friendship and keeps it going.  When I was young(er), I used to try desperately hard to keep up with ex school friends who lived abroad, either by letter or email. I still feel very guilty about never having time to write or read the lengthy emails from one particular friend in Florida, and our friendship is no longer as a result.  I realise now that, whilst we shared what was happening in our separate lives, there was no interaction.  The reason that I am able to feel connected with my nearest and dearest in a country such as Japan is, because I am able to talk to them daily about the tiny details of both our lives in a way that I would if they were along the road.   Little 'soundbites' of information such as Leo's first snow are there for me in real time, like comments, without having to dedicate hours to friendship maintenance.

Someone once said to me, 'Why do you have to message me via facebook?  Why can't you just send me an email?' I guess someone also once said, (although not to me), 'Why can't you just write that on the cave wall' .  I think we are so lucky to live in the age that we do, and I think its very important, no matter how old we are, to keep up and to explore the technology that is available to us, integrating it into our daily lives as much as we can.  My latest discovery, although I fear that I am slightly slow on the uptake here, is 'Twittering' (www.twitter.com). Twittering, is basically the next step on from blogging, where you send out into the ether, a stream of information about anything you like, to be shared with other users.  Not only between friends, but twittering can bring you a different perspective on people you have previously only viewed from afar - Obama currently has the biggest following.  It is also an excellent, although not necessarily reliable, source of real time news - the twittering network broke the news on the Hudson river crash a long time before the traditional sources.  If you haven't already, I urge you to try it, and download a 'twitterboard' onto your desk top to make it easy to join in.  Read http://bit.ly.IVXiJ if you want to know more.

Toilet humour

Childish but it made me laugh!  In case you didn't know how to use a western style loo, here are the instructions.  Interestingly there were no instructions on how to use the other style!  

I guess I couldn't be here without mentioning the loos.   Like many things in Japan, they are unlike anywhere else.  We have 3 in our house and each have a number of facilities, on which we in the West are missing out.  Heated seats for one, and with a temperature control, so you can warm your bottom on a cold morning.  They have different flushing sound effects, bidet style showers with different spray heights, again with temperature control.  Flushing can be hands free or manual and even the bowl clearing is a completely different design, using two separate flows, one in and out, thereby achieving success every time.  Our home ones have nothing on the more expensive models which can be found in public places and hotels, which have a whole level of other options.   Of course, I would struggle with the control buttons as they are labelled in Japanese, but luckily, each has a small illustration of the function in use, to help clarify.  Let face it, a bottom looks like any other bottom, no matter where you come from!

Biking weekend 2

This weekend involved biking of a different kind, as we decided to get out of town on M's big white Kawasaki, particularly as Saturday was so beautiful.  I winged a bit at first but then, as we left 45k worth of traffic jam in our wake (yes really!) and M bought me a helmet, I actually really liked it.  Our plan was to go to Kamakura, the original 13th century capital, and now a big surfing center, about 1 hour away from Tokyo.  Unfortunately, due to slight translation issue of motorway signage, we ended up miles down the Tomei express way, egged on by the most amazing view of Mount Fuji towering over us in front.  Finally, after managing to acquire an English map from a nice lady concierge at a service center, we took a left, and headed off through a mountain pass towards the coast. 

Japan is quite literally, one of the most beautiful countries on earth.  It's natural colours of rust, olive green and inky blue, give it an air of sophisticated magnificence, which I have never seen anywhere else.  That's a big statement but it fits because, when the sun shines, it is clear from where the inspiration for all those samurai movies comes.   Our drive took us through winding mountain roads, past a crystal factory, where the entrance courtyard was filled with trees made entirely of glass droplets, sparkling in the sunlight.  We drove past fields of workers cutting grass, which seemed wrong for this time of year so who knows what they were actually cutting.  We ended up at a small town at the end of an enormous lake, with paddle steamers that looked like they had been there since samurai, until their motors started and they whipped along like a cross channel ferry.  Set in the tallest trees I think I have ever seen, we found a shrine where we rang bells to alert the gods to our presence (if they hadn't heard us coming on the bike!)  Unfortunately, our fortunes, given to us on a slip of paper were in Japanese, so we'll have to wait to see what actually happens.  I wish they might have mentioned how cold I'd get on the way home though because I think it could have been frostbite!

After a few more bends in the road, a waterfall and a few monkeys, we hit the coast and the amazing light that happens just before sunset - perfect shooting light apparently, according to David.  We finally hit Kamakura, and watched the most perfect sunset over rocks and surfers, with about 1,000 Japanese photographer's capturing the moment.

(see pics in last blog).  

PS Could you guys possibly register so I know you are there!  You need to sign up for a blog but you don't actually have to use it other than for a registration and then you will know when I've posted updates.  It takes 2 minutes and its free!  You can also then write me rude messages too. Thanks

Biking weekend

More blossom

Blossom

Not much of a blog today because my boy is on his way back.. Having fully devastated the glass palace Im doing my best to put it right and remove the coffee cups from their positions of 'on their way back to the kitchen'.  And having had a lovely Skype with the hardworking Clare, I've got to get a wiggle on ... Its gloriously sunny, although when I get out there I know it will still be glove weather, and Im going to go to Shibuya to buy food for dinner.  I would really like it to be paella but I know I haven't got a hope in hell of securing appropriate rice so Im going to attempt a seafood risotto instead.  M is a bit of a takeover merchant so I'll start and look a bit helpless and I'm sure he will take over and show me how to do it properly.  Little will he know that its only a ploy and Rick Stein is there guiding me all the way!

Meanwhile, here are some pictures of blossoms for you taken in the local park ... They are exceptionally early apparently and we've all got some form of hay fever, but they are absolutely stunning and smell amazing so who cares about a runny nose when its so obvious that Spring is on it's way!

Hanging on the telephone

Running around town, its increasingly obvious how much people here rely on their mobile phones.  In fact, when walking down the street, a person is most likely to be holding their phone out in front of them, almost like a beacon guiding their way.  

My crackberry fails to work here, apparently because I don't have 3G.  The one I have instead is reminiscent of a mobile from the 80's, long and flat and very ugly.  I find it impossible to figure out, and not just because some of the functions are in Japanese.  I assumed that it had the basic functions such as text, and alarm, and probably a calculator too, and these are sufficient for most of us.  But what I've now discovered is that most mobile phones here, including mine, have a plethora of functions to assist you in your every need.

Most are flip with a twist to access the keys, and the Japanese seem to make a big deal of the covers, customising them with stickers and jangly accessories, adding to their already bulky size.  They do everything my blackberry can do, with high spec cameras for both still and moving image and you can also watch TV on some of the latest models.  Although it is possible to text, most Japanese prefer to email or instant message because of the cost.  Phones can also guide your journey, be it in the car, walking or on public transport.  But the most amazing thing for me is the fact that each phone carries a scanner which operates as a form of payment.  This means that I don't need a credit card any more and I can pay for things simply by scanning my mobile and it will be charged to my account.  I can also use it as a Pasmo card (their Oyster equivalent) which means I can scan on the ticket barriers.  So behaving like the Queen is in easy grasp and soon I won't even need to carry a purse.

Unlike the Brits, the Japanese are not struggling with this new technology and have already established and etiquette as to how it should be used.  People do not shout and use on tubes and buses is extremely frowned upon, except to text or email.  It is believed that phones can upset pacemakers so one must turn it off in areas where the elderly are likely, such as courtesy seats on public transport.  The Japanese are so good too, and I think that they actually do adhere to these rules.  All but one.  Here too, using a mobile whilst driving is a frequent crime.

Barking

Being allowed to ride along the pavement is very different to cycling in London.  It feels a lot safer for one.  It also comes with its own challenges but Im getting good at weaving in and out of people, and people with people and people with dogs, and other bikes.  It also gives you a great way to observe pavement users, without their knowledge!  

Now, I was going to talk here about the fact that, although Japanese women have excellent taste in clothes and accessories, they struggle in the shoe department, frequently sporting the Japanese equavalent of Dolcis (RIP), and even more frequently with heels worn down to a jaunty angle.  I was going to put this down to their cultural heritage, in particular the kimonos and the wooden shoes in which they are restricted to shuffle, and the fact that this seems to give many of them them a bow legged gait.  However, I had lunch today with Carl (Kiwi friend of Adam's who has been living here for years).  He has suggested that the reason for this is that I have been looking in the wrong areas and the wearers of these shoes are indeed buying them in supermarkets.  Carl says I should look in some of the smarter areas for more expensive shoe wearers.  So I'm going to research this one further and let you know of my findings.  

Instead I'm going to talk about dogs.  In particular, Tokyo dogs and their accessories.  Yes exactly!  It seems that Tokyo, and in particular, Fukuzawa where I live, is home to many little lap dogs.  Chihuahuas in their thousands, as well as toy poodles and a few other strange looking varieties.  Now I understand fully why people want a dog.  And I understand that in a city such as this, where people live cheek by jowl and the open spaces are heavily manicured, a small dog would be the most appropriate choice.  But do people seriously think that it is normal to put a dog in clothes?  Not just clothes but baseball caps, underwear, jewellery and perfume.  Im told you can even get a bikini for a dog, although its still a bit parky for that at the moment.  In my town there are actually more clothing shops for dogs than there are for people.   There are also specialist take away dog food shops and hairdressers (furdressers?!) You can get special prams for dogs, as well as carry baskets and ruck sacks.  Yesterday I was sharing my hilarity on this subject with my NBF Maiko and she said, 'yes but otherwise the dog would be naked'.  Naked!  Its a dog!  

Anyway, although we have a lot to learn from the Japanese, somehow I have a feeling that this craze is not coming our way.  I just don't think we are barking (sorry) enough.  It seems though that many of the shops and ideas here are coming from the West, rather than the other way round.  Paul Smith is flourishing on every street corner.  So is Gap, Top Shop, Starbucks, Gucci, Prada, Chanel blah blah blah.   All into the big global melting pot so we can all look the same (except some of us bigger than others!)  And so would I, of course, if I were Mr Armani.  The Japanese are most professional shoppers and the country boasts being the second largest consumer society in the world.  Every shop is stuffed full of people buying the latest of everything and every person in the street carries a mobile phone and a bag from a luxury brand.  The Japanese markets may have taken a dive, but I think when it was mentioned on the news here, everybody was out shopping.

Here are some pics from yesterday ... I've worked out how to add now ... the pink and grey one is Roppongi Hills (although not quite sure where the hills come into it!) The others show the little Nissan vans and the view from the top.

I was right about the weather, today is grey and cold again.  I've just come back from a big ride to an area known as 'furniture street' where I was led to believe by the usually reliable Wallpaper guides, that I might find cool, second hand furniture and junk shops.  I guess its all relative and one man's junk can be another man's treasure but not mine - there were some shops scattered amongst Lexus car show rooms on a busy road but give me Portobello any day!

Valentines Day

After a big storm last night it was gloriously sunny today - so hot in fact that it was  seriously ' shirt weather and lots of people walking round in shorts.   The weather is so bizarre! One day its boiling and the next, cold and grey.  Those grey days feel a bit like a hangover - like its pulled out all the stops, put on a bright flowery dress and lots of make up to look sunny and beautiful but then the next day it can't really be arsed and would rather stay under a big duvet of cloud.   And how English am I, talking about the weather!?

Anyway, made the most of the sunshine and went to an area called Roppongi.  On one hand, its all cheap bars and clubs but its also home to two of the best cultural complexes I've seen so far. Firstly, I visited Midtown which has been open a couple of years at most.  The main complex is mainly upmarket shopping with a fancy supermarket in the basement and an even more fancy hotel situated in the tallest tower in Tokyo.  I found one shop called 'Sun Fruits' which looked like a really fancy cake shop with brightly coloured, objects, set in glass cases to protect them.  These turned out to be ordinary, albeit perfect, apples, strawberries and oranges being sold at extraordinary prices.  

I skipped outside as soon as I could to visit 21-21 Gallery, the main reason I came.  This is a gallery designed and run by Issay Miyake, a Muji designer and a graphic designer.  A bit like the Serpentine Gallery, although a lot more beautiful.  The exhibition was great but not a patch on the building, which was all glass and polished steel and sharp corners.  After this, and a visit to some funky looking Nissan customised vans slash gift shops, I skipped across Roppongi to the Mori Art Museum on the 52 Floor of another center in Roppongi Hills.  As part of the ticket price there is also a circular walk around the 'sky deck' which gave you a massive view of the whole of Tokyo.  The museum was showing an exhibition on contemporary Indian art and was brilliant.  It featured an Indian elephant covered in bhindis which I have seen and loved before in Brisbane but the whole show was really well thought through and one of the best shows ever.  

Home (and smugly reading a book on the tube like I knew where I was going) and a yoga class - yippee... After my hilarious experience with the yoga class last week where I realised as it started that it would all be taught in Japanese, I decided to take the easy option and join a site.  I found one that for 9$ a month you can download as many classes as you like and bail at any time - I've turned M's studio in the top room into my yoga room.  Hopefully, I'll be a  lot more bendy (and calm) when I see you!

Late start today due to the fact its a holiday here.  Not exactly sure who is on holiday because M wasn't and and there wasn't any evidence of it in Shibuya where I spent a few hours.  This is the tacky pop culture area where the teens hang out and its also home to the world's busiest pedestrian crossing.  After a couple of hours people watching, my blood sugar level was on the floor and I looked for something to eat.  What I fail to understand is how restaurant owners think a plastic model of the food offered could possibly entice your saliva to do its thing? Most of it is unidentifiable.  Still I braved it and selected something that turned out to be crabmeat, grated carrot, asparagus and mushroom in gloop sauce.  Delicious, particularly if you kept your eyes closed.  All for around 15 quid.  Joy of joys though, its considered rude to tip for anything in Japan.  I've found this really refreshing because you know exactly where you are and service is part of the culture rather than something that is pitched to earn extra cash.

After lunch, I found a food market that would put you off mashed peas for life and ended up in the Valentines section.  It's big here and the custom is for girls to buy their loved ones chocolate.  My loved one is not getting any chocolate.  He's on a diet.

A lovely sunny day yesterday there were the first signs of the revered blossoms and I decided to go to Yoyogi Park to see the shrine.  This involved my first journey on the Tokyo underground.  I think we all know that I'm not a natural when it comes to public transport, but this is apparently the most efficient underground system in the world - so reliable that if on the rare occasion trains don't run to time, passengers are given late notices to take to work.  It is based on the London underground system, using different colours to differentiate between lines. That's as far as the similarities go in my book because the lines reminded more of a ball of coloured string than of the great bear.  This, coupled with the fact that the map in its entirety is rarely seen in English, meant I spent two hours getting to my destination and as a number of lines use the same platforms, I found myself lost several times.  A payment is required for each change so it was a very expensive experience.

For the next few days, as Mark has gone to New Zealand and the car is in the garage (and far too complicated to use, but that's another story...) I'm sticking to my new yellow bike.  I love my bike;  it has no gears so my thighs are getting very toned.  It has an in-built lock that jams the back wheel - no use in London, but for crime free Tokyo, its perfect!  A cyclist in Tokyo can do pretty much whatever she likes, jumping from pavement to road to avoid people and lights. Each crossing has a separate lane and each street has walkways on both sides.  Because I have longer legs than most of the locals, I'm a bit faster and tend to stick to the roads to avoid taking anyone out.  Its also great to cut through local parks although, rather hilariously, our local 'Olympic Park', which has a great cycle, running and walking track, must only be used in an anti clockwise direction.  This means families of people and dog walkers are all going round together the same way.

Mark keeps his bike outside and doesn't bother to lock it.  I was dubious about this until yesterday when our local police officer came round and gave me his personal number in case we had any trouble.   Extraordinary!