Kiso snow trip

Sorry to be out of radio contact but as Mark had been ill and my time is running out, we decided to get out of Tokyo for a couple of days to get some fresh air.  

No bike this time, we headed out west following the detailed instructions of the woman in the sat nav ... turn slightly left... As we started to climb, 'Slightly', reported that there would be lane closures due to snow.  She wasn't kidding.  Even the motorway information signs had pictures of little snowmen. Getting out of the car in the Kiso valley, we were hit with the crisp coldness that you get in ski resorts, where you wonder whether you brought enough clothing.

The Kiso valley contains a walking route used in the Shogun period where people used foot power to get themselves across the mountains without detection.  The valley is home to a number of 'post towns' where people rest and little has changed in this time.  The hamlets along the river contain black houses made almost entirely of bamboo, and Im sure little has changed over the past four hundred years.  There are a number of walks through here, one of which is the 8k Nakasendo trail which we planned to do.  We found a great hotel with an onsen powered by the tumbling river, directly behind, where we were able to stuff our faces on Japanese fayre.  The following morning, whilst eating breakfast with the snow falling outside, we realised that our planned walk may need some adjustment.   We walked instead across the bridge and up into the hills directly behind the time, where a waterfall and the ruins of an ancient castle could be found.  It was completely magical and the scenery breathtaking.  Climbing steep wooden steps took us high past dams and small waterfalls, shrines and giant trees, all covered with fresh white powder.  We reached the waterfall where water tumbled over black volcanic rock and we stood on the path only a few feet from where it fell, mesmerised.  

The weather conditions worsened and we realised we needed to come down.  We found a small roadside cafe where we ate fish and vegetables which we grilled on a table top BBQ, with mugs of green tea and steamed up windows.  The journey back was slow, and returning to Tokyo, we discovered that snow had fallen here too.  Unfortunately, heating here is not central, and although we are blessed with underfloor heating in the main rooms, the open planned layout of the house, meant a chilly night with jamas and thick woolen socks!